Guides
Campervan Side Pods
Side Pods Benefits, Installation & What You Need to Know If you're planning a VW Crafter, MAN TGE or Mercedes Sprinter campervan conversion, you've probably come across campervan side pods. Also known as side flares, sleeping pods or van side pods, they are one of the most effective ways to create additional living space without moving to a larger vehicle. For many campervan builders, the biggest challenge is fitting a comfortable bed into a limited space. Side pods solve this problem by extending the bodywork at the rear of the van, allowing most adults to sleep across the width of the vehicle rather than lengthways. The result is a more spacious layout, increased storage opportunities and a more practical campervan overall. Ready to add up to 6'6" of sleeping width? Shop our made-to-order side pods for the VW Crafter, MAN TGE and Mercedes Sprinter. Shop Side Pods Not sure they'll fit your van? Send us your reg and we'll confirm before you order. What Are Campervan Side Pods? Campervan side pods are moulded GRP (Glass Reinforced Plastic) extensions that are permanently bonded into the side panels of a van. They protrude beyond the original bodywork and create additional internal width in the sleeping area. They are most commonly fitted to: VW Crafter side pods VW Crafter LWB side pods MAN TGE side pods Mercedes Sprinter side pods Sprinter campervan conversions Overland and off-grid campervan builds Most modern side pods are supplied as a left and right-hand pair and are designed specifically for either MWB or LWB vehicles. How Do Side Pods Work? The primary purpose of side pods is to increase the internal width of the van where the bed is located. A standard van body can often be too narrow for many adults to sleep comfortably across the vehicle. By extending the bodywork on both sides, side pods create enough additional width to allow a transverse bed layout. On the Wildworx VW Crafter and MAN TGE design, the finished sleeping width can reach approximately 6ft 6in (1980mm), allowing most people to sleep sideways comfortably. This seemingly small increase in width creates significant design benefits because it frees up floor space throughout the rest of the campervan. The Benefits of Campervan Side Pods 1. Sleep Sideways Instead of Lengthways This is the biggest reason most people install side pods. By sleeping across the van, you no longer need a bed running front-to-back. This can save over a metre of valuable interior floor space and completely transform the layout of your campervan. 2. Create More Living Space The space saved by a transverse bed can be used for: Larger kitchens Additional seating Bigger garage storage Internal showers Composting toilets Extra worktop space Many converters find side pods allow them to achieve layouts that would otherwise only be possible in a much longer vehicle. 3. More Storage Opportunities Because the bed runs across the van, the area underneath can often be used more efficiently for storage. This is particularly useful for outdoor adventure equipment, bikes, recovery gear and camping equipment. 4. Factory-Style Appearance Modern side pods are designed to integrate with the vehicle bodywork rather than look like an afterthought. The Wildworx design uses a hidden fixing flange located behind the pod rather than around the outer edge, creating a cleaner OEM-style finish with no visible external flange. How Are Side Pods Installed? Installing side pods is a permanent body modification and requires cutting into the van. A professional installation typically follows these stages: 1. Vehicle Inspection & Layout The vehicle is inspected and measured before templates are applied to the bodywork. Positioning should always be checked by a second technician before cutting begins. 2. Cutting the Aperture The surrounding paintwork is protected before pilot holes are drilled and the body aperture is carefully cut. Any internal obstructions must be identified before cutting. 3. Edge Preparation All exposed metal edges are deburred, primed and treated with corrosion protection to prevent future rust. 4. Trial Fitting The side pods are temporarily fitted to verify alignment, clearances and symmetry on both sides of the van. 5. Bonding The pods are bonded using high-strength automotive polyurethane adhesive. This creates a strong, weatherproof connection between the pod and the vehicle body. 6. Structural Support Many side pod systems require support beams or replacement framework where structural sections of the original bodywork have been removed. This is a critical part of the installation and should never be overlooked. 7. Quality Control Once cured, the installation is checked for: Water tightness Adhesive coverage Corrosion protection Symmetry Finish quality What Do You Need To Fit Side Pods? Depending on the design, installation may require: Side pod kit Vehicle-specific templates Automotive polyurethane adhesive Corrosion protection products Cutting tools Clamps and support equipment Structural support beams or reinforcement framework Optional opening windows and blinds Many side pods are supplied in a black or grey gel coat finish and require preparation before painting to match the vehicle. Are Side Pods Worth It? For most VW Crafter, MAN TGE and Mercedes Sprinter conversions, side pods are one of the highest-impact upgrades available. Unlike many campervan modifications that provide marginal improvements, side pods fundamentally change how the interior can be designed. The ability to sleep sideways, create additional living space and maximise storage can make a medium wheelbase van feel significantly larger without increasing the vehicle's overall length. For anyone planning a serious off-grid, overland or adventure campervan build, side pods are often the difference between a layout that works and one that feels compromised. Add 6'6" of Width to Your Build Our side pods are hand-built to order in the UK, supplied as a pair and backed by a 1-year warranty. Free UK shipping over £100. Shop Side Pods Want it done for you? Book professional fitting with Wildworx, or send us your reg and we'll confirm fitment first.
Learn more
The Ultimate Guide to Campervan Accessories: Which upgrades Are Actually Worth It?
If you've spent any time looking at adventure vans on Instagram or YouTube, you've probably seen them. Big all-terrain tyres. Roof racks loaded with gear. Snorkels. Light bars. Recovery tracks. Winches. They all look impressive. But here's the question most people never ask: Which campervan accessories genuinely improve your adventures, and which ones simply improve the way your van looks? The truth is that not every upgrade is right for every van owner. Some accessories can completely transform how you travel. Others may add weight, cost and complexity without ever being used. In this guide, we'll walk through the most popular adventure campervan upgrades, explain what they actually do, who they're for, and help you decide whether they're worth adding to your build. Watch: Are These Campervan Upgrades Actually Worth It? We've put together a full video breaking down each of these upgrades, showing what they do in the real world and helping you decide which are right for your van. 👉 Watch the full video and decide for yourself: Which campervan upgrades are genuinely worth it? Before You Start: What Kind of Adventure Do You Actually Want? The biggest mistake people make is buying accessories before defining how they'll use their van. A campervan built for weekends in Cornwall looks very different to one designed for a six-month overland trip through Morocco. Ask yourself: Do you mostly stay on campsites? Do you regularly drive on muddy fields? Do you enjoy remote wild camping? Do you carry bikes, kayaks or paddleboards? Are you planning long overland expeditions? Your answers should determine your upgrades. Not Instagram. 1. Off-Road Wheels and All-Terrain Tyres Best for: Campsites Gravel tracks Muddy fields Light off-road driving If there's one upgrade that offers both visual impact and practical benefits, it's a good set of off-road wheels paired with all-terrain tyres. Unlike standard road tyres, all-terrain tyres are designed to provide extra grip on loose surfaces such as gravel, mud, sand and wet grass. This doesn't turn your campervan into a Land Rover. But it can mean the difference between driving out of a muddy field and waiting three hours for a tow truck. Pros ✔ Improved grip on loose surfaces ✔ Better durability ✔ More aggressive adventure styling ✔ Increased confidence when conditions deteriorate Cons ✘ Slightly more road noise ✘ Reduced fuel economy Worth it? For most campervan owners: Yes. This is often the best first upgrade to make. 2. Roof Racks Best for: Active travellers Long trips Carrying sports equipment A roof rack effectively gives you an extra storage room. For many people, it's the difference between travelling comfortably and feeling like you're living in a cluttered cupboard. Roof racks can carry: Paddleboards Kayaks Surfboards Recovery gear Storage boxes Solar panels Starlink systems Awnings They also help protect roof-mounted equipment such as skylights and solar panels from overhanging branches. Pros ✔ Massive increase in storage capacity ✔ Flexible mounting options ✔ Protects roof equipment ✔ Makes longer trips easier Cons ✘ Can affect fuel economy ✘ May increase wind noise Worth it? Absolutely, if you regularly carry outdoor gear. 3. Lift Kits and Upgraded Suspension Best for: Off-road travel Rough tracks Heavy campervan builds Lift kits increase ground clearance, helping your van clear obstacles that would otherwise scrape the underside. They also improve approach and departure angles when driving over uneven ground. Combined with quality suspension upgrades, they can dramatically improve both comfort and capability. Pros ✔ More ground clearance ✔ Better off-road performance ✔ Improved ride quality with premium suspension ✔ Increased confidence on rough terrain Cons ✘ Expensive ✘ Can affect handling if poorly designed Worth it? Only if you genuinely leave the tarmac behind. For campsite users, the money may be better spent elsewhere. 4. Snorkels Best for: Dusty environments Overland travel Desert expeditions The snorkel is one of the most misunderstood campervan accessories. Contrary to popular belief, it isn't primarily designed to help you drive through rivers. Its main purpose is to raise the vehicle's air intake higher away from dust, spray and debris. This becomes especially important when travelling in convoy or driving on dusty tracks. Pros ✔ Cleaner air intake ✔ Better protection from dust ✔ Reduced risk of water ingestion ✔ Adventure styling Cons ✘ Limited benefit for most UK users Worth it? Essential for serious overland travel. Probably unnecessary for weekend camping. 5. Light Bars Best for: Off-road driving Remote locations Night-time exploration A quality light bar can completely transform visibility once you're off public roads. When you're navigating unknown terrain after dark, spotting obstacles early can prevent damage and make driving significantly safer. Important Light bars are generally not legal for use on UK public roads unless used appropriately. Always check local regulations. Worth it? Excellent for genuine adventure travel. Mostly cosmetic if your van rarely leaves campsites. 6. Underbody Protection Best for: Rough tracks Overland travel Expensive campervan builds Most campervan owners spend thousands protecting the inside of their van. Very few think about protecting the underside. A sump guard protects critical components such as: Engine sump Transmission Front axle components One unexpected rock strike can cause thousands of pounds worth of damage. Worth it? One of the smartest upgrades available if you travel off-road. 7. Recovery Tracks Best for: Mud Sand Wet grass Solo travellers Recovery tracks are one of the cheapest adventure upgrades available. When you lose traction, they provide a surface for your tyres to grip and climb out. They're lightweight, easy to store and often solve problems before they become serious. Worth it? Yes. Every adventure van should carry a set. 8. Winches Best for: Serious expeditions Remote travel Heavy off-road use A winch can recover a stuck vehicle without needing help from another driver. However, they are heavy, expensive and rarely used by most campervan owners. Worth it? If you're planning expeditions through remote terrain: Absolutely. For everyone else: Probably not. The Most Important Upgrade Isn't a Product After years of building and using adventure vans, we've learned something important. The best campervan upgrade isn't a snorkel. It isn't a roof rack. It isn't even a lift kit. It's confidence. The confidence to take that dirt track. The confidence to stay an extra night. The confidence to explore somewhere new. The right upgrades don't just change how your campervan looks. They change where you're willing to go. And that's where the real adventure begins.
Learn more
Where to Spend vs Save on a Campervan Conversion
This guide is for you if: You’re planning a VW Transporter, Crafter, or Sprinter build You want a proper off-road or off-grid setup You care about long-term usability, not just looks You’re working with a £30k–£100k+ total budget This approach is ideal if you: Travel off-grid regularly Want reliability over gimmicks Plan to keep or resell the van at strong value Prefer phased upgrades over cutting corners What Most People Get Wrong Spending too much on the conversion, not enough on the base van Cheap electrical systems that limit real-world use Overbuilding soundproofing Buying “campervan-specific” products unnecessarily Ignoring long-term durability (flooring, fixtures) Recommended Campervan Setup (Balanced Build) If you want to get it right first time: Base: High-spec VW Crafter / MAN TGE / Sprinter Core priorities: Strong electrical system (lithium + inverter) Proper insulation 12V fridge Smart savings: Domestic taps & hardware Household induction hob Minimal sound deadening Optional upgrades: Auto levelling system Traction boards instead of winch Roof rack + storage system for gear Where Products Fit Into Your Build To make this setup work in real life, you’ll typically need: Electrical components → battery systems, inverters Off-grid accessories → solar panels, lighting kits Storage solutions → roof racks, internal storage Recovery gear → traction boards, recovery points These aren’t “extras” they define how usable your van is. Most people assume a campervan conversion costs a fortune. In reality, the problem isn’t the budget, it’s where the money gets spent. We see it all the time. People overspend on the wrong parts, then cut corners on the things that actually matter. The result? A van that looks good on paper but doesn’t perform in the real world. This guide breaks down exactly where to spend and where to save on a campervan conversion. All of this is based on our decades of experience, Not theory. The Biggest Mistake: Blowing Your Budget on the Wrong Base Vehicle If you're working with around £100k, you need to be realistic. VW Crafter / MAN TGE (high spec): ~£65k–£70k Mercedes Sprinter: up to ~£75k That leaves £25k–£30k for the conversion — which is not enough for a full luxury build. Your Two Options: 1. Buy a premium base vehicle + phase the build over time → Best long-term decision 2. Buy a cheaper van + max out the conversion → Usually not the right call. Why This Matters People don’t regret their kitchen units.They regret: Poor driving experience Lack of comfort Lower resale value If you're spending serious money, buyers expect a premium base vehicle. Where You Can Save Money (Without Compromising Quality) Taps & Hardware (Skip “Campervan-Specific”) The campervan industry inflates prices massively. Most “campervan taps” are: Plastic Weak at mounting points Prone to loosening and leaking Better option: Use high-quality domestic brass fittings ✔ Stronger✔ Better finish✔ Longer lifespan You’ll often spend less and get more. 2. Cooking Setup (Skip the Oven) Most people don’t use an oven in a campervan. Instead: Go gasless Use an induction hob + air fryer You can use standard household induction hobs. They perform exactly the same as “campervan” versions at a fraction of the price. Soundproofing (Don’t Overdo It) You don’t need to cover every panel. Factory vans already: Reduce vibration with structural shapes Only require minimal deadening on flat panels What actually works: Small targeted sections on large flat areas Anything more: Adds weight Adds cost Adds labour With very little real benefit. Winch vs Real-World Use A winch looks great, but most people will never use it. Cost: ~£2,000 fitted Heavy Only useful in serious off-road recovery Better alternative for most: Traction boards Much cheaper Lightweight Perfect for mud, sand, campsites Where You SHOULD Spend Money Electrical System (Non-Negotiable) This is where most DIY builds fall apart. If you want a proper off-grid campervan setup, you need: Large lithium battery bank High-quality inverter (e.g. 3000VA) Proper system design Why? Because you're powering: Induction cooking Charging Lighting Possibly heating Cheap systems = ❌ Limited runtime ❌ Constant charging ❌ Frustrating trips This is the difference between: A weekend van vs A true off-grid setup 2. Insulation (More Important Than Soundproofing) Good insulation solves: Heat loss Condensation Comfort in all seasons A proper setup includes: Thermal liner (heat reflection) Cavity fill (air gaps for efficiency) Full metal coverage to prevent condensation What most people get wrong: They overspend on sound deadening and underinvest in insulation. Flooring (Small Cost, Big Impact) Cheap vinyl flooring: Wears quickly Scratches easily Looks tired fast Better option: LVT (Luxury Vinyl Tile) ✔ Extremely hard-wearing ✔ Waterproof ✔ Replace individual sections if damaged ✔ Looks significantly better Cost difference across a van: ~£30–£50 → This is an easy upgrade. 4. Fridge (Spend Properly) Do NOT use a household fridge. Problems: High power consumption Requires inverter constantly Noisy Hard to secure Proper 12V campervan fridge: Efficient Quiet Built for movement This is a daily-use item so don’t cheap out. Auto Levelling System (Underrated Upgrade) Not essential but massively improves usability. Instead of: Driving back and forward Using levelling blocks You get: One-button levelling Done in seconds Cost: ~£5k–£6kBut you’ll use it every trip. FAQ: Campervan Conversion Costs & Setup How much does a campervan conversion cost in the UK? Anywhere from £10k DIY to £100k+ for high-end builds. Most premium builds exceed £80k total including the base vehicle. Should I buy a cheaper van and spend more on the conversion? Usually no. You’ll compromise driving experience and resale value. Can I install an electrical system myself? You can — but for high-capacity lithium systems and inverters, professional installation is strongly recommended. Is a gasless campervan setup worth it? Yes. It simplifies the system and works well with a proper electrical setup. What’s the best flooring for a campervan? LVT (Luxury Vinyl Tile). It’s durable, waterproof, and repairable. Do I need a winch for off-road campervanning? Only if you’re doing serious remote off-roading. Most people are better off with traction boards. Will these upgrades work in a VW Transporter? Yes — but space and power requirements are tighter than in a Crafter or Sprinter. What’s the most important upgrade for off-grid use? Your electrical system. Everything else depends on it.
Learn more
MAN TGE / VW Crafter LWB MOLLE Panels (2018+) Storage Upgrade Guide + Fitment Help
Proper storage. Properly mounted. No more loose kit sliding around the van. If you’ve got a MAN TGE or VW Crafter LWB, you’ve got loads of space. But that doesn’t automatically mean you’ve got good storage. Most vans end up with the same problems: tools and straps living in random tubs recovery gear dumped “somewhere near the back” cables, torches and little essentials buried under bedding gear sliding about every time you hit a pothole or track A MOLLE panel fixes that by giving you a solid mounting grid where your gear stays put, stays tidy, and stays accessible. Even when the van’s getting used properly. This guide covers what a MOLLE panel is, how it works, how to mount kit to it properly (without bodging it), and which setup makes sense for a real-world off-road / touring van. Free UK shipping on all MOLLE panels. Quick Recommendations (if you just want the answer) Best MOLLE panel for MAN TGE / VW Crafter (2018+) If you want a clean, rugged setup that actually works in the real world, start here: MOLLE Storage Panel – VW Crafter / MAN TGE (2018+) Want to build a full setup over time? Start with a panel now, add pouches and mounts later as you learn what you actually use. Shop the full MOLLE panel collection What is a MOLLE panel? A MOLLE panel is a rigid mounting plate with a grid of slots and holes.It’s designed so you can attach pouches, straps, clips and brackets in a modular way — meaning you can change your setup without drilling new holes every time. MOLLE originally comes from military load-carrying systems, but it works brilliantly in vans because it gives you: organised storage quick access to essential kit a cleaner interior less rattling and loose gear sliding around In short: it turns “van clutter” into a proper system. How do MOLLE panels work? A MOLLE panel works by giving you a repeating grid of mounting points so you can attach gear in different ways: weave straps through the slots (classic MOLLE method) use bolt-on clips / mounts (depending on your accessories) use bungees or straps through the holes to secure larger items add/remove pouches as your needs change The big advantage is the flexibility. Your van setup changes depending on the trip. A muddy weekend on tracks needs a different loadout to: family touring festivals mountain biking weekends towing and daily driving A MOLLE panel lets you adapt without turning your van into a permanent mess. Why MOLLE panels make sense in a MAN TGE / VW Crafter LWB The LWB vans are brilliant platforms, but they create a specific storage issue:you’ve got space everywhere… so gear ends up everywhere. A MOLLE panel helps because it gives you structure. You stop guessing where things are and start building a “grab zone” for the stuff you actually need. The real-world benefits 1) Less loose kit (safer, quieter, less annoying) Loose gear in a big van isn’t just messy — it’s dangerous on rough ground and hard braking. A MOLLE panel helps you store kit so it stays put. 2) Faster access (when you’re stood in mud) If you’ve ever had to unload half the van to find: a torch a ratchet strap a tyre deflator a first aid kit …you already know why this matters. 3) Cleaner overland look (without being “posey”) A properly fitted MOLLE panel looks purposeful.It makes the van feel like a tool, not a camper full of shopping bags and cable spaghetti. What you can mount to a MOLLE panel Here’s what works well in a TGE / Crafter build: Off-road / recovery kit gloves soft shackles kinetic rope tyre deflators small compressor hose kit head torch Touring essentials power bank + charging leads washing-up kit lantern lighter + stove bits quick first-aid pouch Daily driving / workhorse use bungees ratchet straps basic tool pouch zip ties and tape work gloves and PPE How to attach things to a MOLLE panel (properly) This is where a lot of people get it wrong. The whole point of MOLLE is that it’s secure. If your pouches flap about, sag, or come loose — it’s not the panel’s fault, it’s the mounting. The correct way (woven properly) Most MOLLE pouches use a webbing strap system (usually with poppers or velcro ends). You want to weave it like this: Thread the strap through the MOLLE panel slot Back through the pouch webbing Through the next panel slot Repeat all the way down Lock it off at the bottom That weaving pattern stops the pouch swinging, bouncing and loosening with vibration. Common giveaway it’s mounted wrong If the pouch can be pulled away from the panel easily, or it wobbles like mad, it’s not woven correctly. Where to mount a MOLLE panel in your Crafter / TGE People always focus on doors first because it looks cool — but the best place is wherever you’ll actually use it. Great mounting locations for real use near the side door (fast access) rear storage area (recovery + tools) near your kitchen zone (touring kit) near the garage area (bike straps, pump, spares) “Can I mount one on the bottom of a compartment, not the lid?” Yes, it’s a smart idea if you want gear to stay accessible without everything flipping around when you open/close something. The key is making sure: the panel is mounted flat and solid you’re using secure attachments (not just velcro and hope) you’re not blocking hinges, wiring, or trim fixings The MOLLE Panel we recommend for this van platform MOLLE Storage Panel – VW Crafter / MAN TGE (2018+) This is the cleanest way to add proper modular storage to a Crafter / TGE build, without bodging random brackets onto trim panels. View the product here If you’re building an off-road style van properly, a MOLLE panel is one of those upgrades that feels “small”… then you wonder how you lived without it. Common mistakes people make (and how to avoid them) Mistake 1: Buying MOLLE for looks, not function If you’re only doing it for the overland look, you’ll end up with a wall full of random pouches you never use. Fix: start with a small “essentials loadout” and earn your way into more. Mistake 2: Overloading it with heavy gear up high Heavy items mounted high can: rattle pull on fixings become dangerous in a crash Fix: heavy kit low, lighter kit higher. Mistake 3: Not weaving MOLLE properly Loose pouches become annoying fast. Fix: weave it properly and it stays tight. Mistake 4: Mounting it somewhere awkward If it blocks access or you can’t reach it easily, it becomes dead space. Fix: choose a “grab zone” near your real working area. Is a MOLLE panel worth it, or is it just expensive metal? You’ll see people complain about MOLLE panels being overpriced — usually the same people storing £500 worth of kit in a £12 wobbly box. Here’s the truth: You’re not paying for a flat panel.You’re paying for: a clean mounting system gear staying secure off-road less time wasted digging around a van interior that stays tidy long-term If you actually use the van outside a campsite, it’s worth it. Buyer checklist (quick skim) Before you buy, ask yourself: Do I want gear secured for real off-road use? Do I keep losing straps/tools/cables in the van? Do I want quicker access to essentials? Do I want a cleaner build finish? Am I building a system, not just adding clutter? If you said yes to two or more, you’ll get value from a MOLLE setup. FAQs What is a MOLLE panel? A MOLLE panel is a rigid mounting grid that lets you attach pouches, straps and accessories in a modular way, keeping gear secure and easy to access. How do MOLLE panels work? They work using a repeating slot/grid pattern that allows MOLLE straps and attachments to weave through and lock in place. This stops gear wobbling or coming loose with vibration. How does a MOLLE panel work in a campervan? It turns empty wall/door space into usable storage, improves organisation, reduces loose kit sliding around, and makes essential gear quicker to reach. How do I attach things to a MOLLE panel? Most pouches attach by weaving their straps through the panel slots and back through the pouch webbing repeatedly. This keeps the pouch tight and stops it bouncing around. Can I mount a MOLLE panel somewhere other than a door? Yes. You can mount MOLLE panels to walls, bulkheads, garage areas, or inside compartments. The best location is wherever you’ll access the gear most. Can I buy the hardware separately? Some brands do, some don’t — it depends on the kit. If you’re unsure what you need for your specific mounting surface, it’s worth choosing a panel designed for your vehicle and intended location, rather than guessing fixings. Where do I buy MOLLE pouches? You can use a wide range of MOLLE-compatible pouches — just make sure they’re decent quality and can handle vibration and weight. Cheap pouches often sag or loosen over time. Where is it made? Buyers do care about this, especially when paying for a premium setup. If your product is UK-made, say it clearly. If not, still be upfront — people mostly care about strength, fit, and longevity. Will this fit my MAN TGE / VW Crafter? This page is for the VW Crafter / MAN TGE (2018+) platform, aimed at LWB builds. Always check your model year and interior layout before ordering.
Learn more
Van Life Isn’t a Scene. It’s Freedom (And Real Owners Are Starting to Push Back)
If you spend any time around campervan owners, you’ll notice something. The loudest version of van life isn’t always the most accurate one. The reality is far less polished, and far more interesting. For most people, a van isn’t about looking the part. It’s about what it does for you: escaping the week getting into the outdoors having freedom sat on the driveway building memories without the hassle and sometimes, just feeling a bit more like yourself again And when you actually listen to real owners, you realise van life is splitting into two clear camps: those who want capability and value and those who want the scene If you’re reading this, chances are you’re in the first camp, and I’m with you. Here are the biggest takeaways from real van owners right now, and what they mean if you’re buying, building, or upgrading a campervan in 2026. 1) Vans Become Personal. It’s Not Just a Vehicle People don’t talk about campervans the way they talk about cars. They name them. They bond with them. They measure time by them. Because a van isn’t just transport. It’s: the trips you actually took the places you parked up at sunrise the weekends you got out of your own head the family memories that don’t happen in a hotel corridor the last-minute escape route when life gets too loud That’s why losing a van through a crash, rust, mechanical failure, or just financial reality can feel like losing far more than a machine. It’s losing your freedom. That’s also why reliability and build quality matter more than people admit. It’s not about being precious. It’s about not having your plans ruined. And this is where the “real-world” stuff matters. The things that keep you moving, and keep the van usable. Even something as boring as good lighting makes a massive difference when you’re packing kit in the dark or trying to sort dinner in a layby. These aren’t just for looks. They’re one of those upgrades you don’t realise you need until you’ve tried doing van life with a headtorch and a phone torch. 2) Self-Build Is Often Driven by Necessity (And It’s Smart) A big trend is people moving towards staged self-builds, and not because they’re desperate to become a “van build influencer”. It’s usually because: camper prices are still high insurance payouts rarely cover replacement value and a lot of people simply can’t justify £50k to £90k on a van that ends up parked more than it’s used So they start with the basics: insulation and lining simple bed platform (or mattress setup) portable power basic storage cooking kit heater later electrics later (professionally checked) This approach is brilliant because it keeps you moving forward without needing everything perfect on day one. If you’re doing a phased build, focus early on the upgrades that make the biggest difference to comfort and usability. Heating (huge game-changer) A diesel heater turns winter van life from “surviving” into “enjoying it”. If you’re running a Transporter, Crafter, Transit Custom etc., the right heater setup (installed properly) gives you: dry air warm mornings less condensation more off-season trips and genuinely more use out of your van Power Portable power stations are a great start, but if you’re planning longer trips you’ll want to think about a proper leisure system eventually. Solar, MPPT, lithium, split charge, the whole lot. If you’re working towards that, make sure your build has a plan for: cabling routes where you’ll mount solar and controllers battery location ventilation And here’s one small upgrade that often gets missed in early builds. If you’re doing any off-road or muddy parking (even just winter UK laybys), a set of decent traction boards can save your whole weekend. It’s exactly the kind of “never needed it, until you do” kit that fits perfectly into a staged build. 3) “VW Tax” Is Real, And People Are Over It This one comes up again and again. Same age, similar spec, but a Transporter costs double. Plenty of owners are now openly saying what people have whispered for years: You’re not just paying for the van. You’re paying for the badge and the scene around it. And here’s the important bit. Many buyers don’t want that anymore. They want: Value Capability easy maintenance parts availability and a van they can actually use without stressing about every scratch That’s why you’re seeing more people choose: Vivaro and Trafic Transit Custom Dispatch and Expert or full-size vans like Crafter, Sprinter, and TGE Not because they’re “cheap”, but because they make more sense. And honestly, I love that shift. Because it means people can spend money where it actually improves the van. For example, if you’re using a van properly, then investing in underbody and chassis protection makes far more sense than chasing badge points. 4) Most Van Life Isn’t Full-Time. It’s Weekends, Micro-Adventures and Real Life Here’s the truth. Most owners are not living in their vans. They’re: escaping on weekends taking day trips doing quick overnighters using it around hobbies (biking, surfing, footy on a cold Sunday morning) making a brew and cooking lunch wherever they fancy staying local but feeling far away This is why the best vans aren’t always the fanciest. They’re the ones that are: quick to use easy to pack simple to maintain comfortable in bad weather built to be used, not polished For this type of owner, upgrades that matter are practical ones. They are the things that make the van work better. Essential “weekend warrior” upgrades insulated blinds and thermal screens (huge comfort boost) quality storage solutions awnings for quick extra space wind-out awnings for fast setup rugged roof racks and exterior storage options lighting that actually works for real use durable flooring (that doesn’t cry when it gets muddy) And roof storage is a big one for this crowd. If you’re only going away for weekends, you don’t want to be unpacking half the van to reach your chairs. A solid roof rack system gives you proper usable space and makes the van far more practical for real life. It’s exactly why roof racks are one of the core product categories we’re building at Play Dirty. They make vans more capable, full stop. 5) Old Vans. More Freedom. New Vans. Less Worry Owners are increasingly divided into two mindsets. Old van freedom Older vans get called “more smiles per mile” for a reason. Because with an older van, you tend to care less about: Dents Scratches Mud wet gear the outside looking perfect You just use it. And that’s incredibly freeing. But here’s the thing. If you’re going to use an older van properly, you want to protect it where it counts. Not by making it precious, but by making it tougher. That might be underbody protection, decent all-terrain tyres, or a rugged light bar for winter driving. New van peace of mind The argument for a newer van is equally valid. Reliability Warranty less downtime better MPG and importantly, staying ahead of clean air zones and emissions rules A lot of people buy newer not because they’re showing off, but because they want fewer unknowns. Neither side is wrong. It comes down to what sort of freedom you want. freedom to not care or freedom to not worry 6) Clean Air Zones and Diesel Uncertainty Are Changing Buying Decisions Whether you love it or hate it, regulations are shaping the market. People are worried about: future diesel restrictions expanding CAZ areas “moving goalposts” on emissions standards depreciation on anything that’s not Euro 6 and whether diesel will be punished financially in the next few years That fear alone pushes people towards newer vans, not because they want to spend more, but because they don’t want to get caught out. If you’re buying now, it’s worth thinking long-term. where do you realistically travel? do you drive into cities often? is this a weekend escape vehicle or daily driver? how long do you plan to keep it? That’ll guide whether Euro 6 is essential for you. And if you are the type that does still head off-grid regularly, one product category that becomes relevant fast is airflow and intake protection. Snorkels aren’t just for show if you’re driving through deeper water or dusty tracks. It’s one of those upgrades that adds real capability and peace of mind, especially for anyone who actually uses their van beyond clean tarmac. 7) Van Life Helps People More Than They Admit (Mental Health Matters) This is one of the most important parts, and it gets missed. A lot of owners quietly acknowledge that having a van helps with: Stress mental health Routine Purpose Connection and just getting outside Even a simple park-up, a brew, and a view can do more for your head than you’d expect. This is why it’s not “just a hobby” for many people. It’s a pressure valve. And it’s exactly why builds should focus on comfort, warmth, and usability. Not just looks. Also, little rituals matter. If the van is your reset button, you want it to feel good. Even something as simple as keeping the van clean and looking right is part of that pride. That’s why our vehicle cleaning and detailing products do so well. Not because people are trying to be flashy, but because they’re proud of what they’ve built and what it represents. 8) The Best Community Conversations Are About the Small Stuff (Not the Badge Wars) Owners don’t really want endless debates about whether VW is “best”. They’d rather talk about things like: the best brew setup how to stop sugar going damp what storage works best for wet gear where to put muddy boots what fridge is actually worth it how to keep warm without condensation Because those are the things that actually affect whether you enjoy the van. And if you’re building a community around van life, that’s where the real engagement is. Real tips. Real hacks. Real use. It’s also where the most useful little products live. The boring stuff that makes van life easier. Hooks, storage, lighting, gear organisers, proper roof storage. Those are the things that turn a van from “nice idea” into something you actually use every weekend. The Takeaway. Van Life Is Whatever Works For You At the end of the day, the best van is the one that gets used. Not the one that’s perfect. Not the one that looks expensive. Not the one that impresses strangers at a show. The one that gives you: ✅freedom✅adventure✅comfort✅memories✅and a reason to get out and go Whether your van is a micro-camper, a battered old day van, or a brand-new LWB build, it only matters if it works for your life. And if you’re the kind of owner who values capability-first, real-world builds, welcome. You’re our people. Quick Next Steps If You Want To Make Your Van More Adventure-Ready If you’re upgrading, self-building, or making a weekend van more usable, the best place to start is with practical kit that gets used constantly: roof racks and MOLLE panels storage (for bikes, boards, chairs and bulky kit) LED light bars and LED Campervan lights (for winter, camp setup, and night driving) underbody and chassis protection (if you’re doing muddy tracks or rough sites) snorkels (for serious off-road or water and dust protection) detailing and cleaning products (because a clean van feels like a better van) All of that is available on Play Dirty, and it’s the exact type of kit we use ourselves.
Learn more
Top 10 Campervan Upgrades That’ll Transform Your Van Life Adventure!
Well, today we’re diving into the Top 10 Campervan Upgrades that can take your van from basic to brilliant, from everyday to adventure-ready. You ever looked at your van and thought, “Yeah, it’s nice… but it could be amazing”? Time to do some shopping and get your campervan playing dirty. We’ve all been there — that moment when your van feels more like a mattress on wheels than the dream adventure rig you’ve been scrolling past on Instagram. 1. Pop-Top Roof: Your Ticket to Standing Room (and Great Sleep) If you’re serious about van life, this is a game-changer. A pop-top roof instantly transforms your van from cramped to comfortable. You can stand up to cook, change clothes, or just stretch your legs, no more bumping your head on the ceiling! Plus, it adds another sleeping platform, turning your van into a proper four-berth camper. Our favourite feature? The scenic canvas option, you can unzip the sides, roll them away, and turn the space into a chill-out balcony. Perfect for warm summer mornings when you pop the roof, let the heat escape, and feel that cool breeze drift in. Depending on the make and model, prices range from £3,500 to £12,000 fitted. The high-end roofs give you a factory finish with sleek fiberglass fronts. The cheaper ones often use simple bolt-through fittings, but be careful of those, as they can lead to water leaks later on. 2. Rear Ladder and Spare Wheel Carrier It might not sound exciting at first, but trust us, this one’s a lifesaver. A rear ladder gives you easy access to your roof rack or solar panels, so you can clean them or pack gear without juggling step stools. The setup we’ve got here from Colehill Customs combines a ladder and spare wheel carrier into one tough, powder-coated aluminium unit. It’s lightweight, strong, and practical, everything you want in a van accessory. Just make sure you fit 180° hinges, so your door doesn’t swing too far and dent your van. A full setup like this costs around £1,400, and it’s worth every penny for the added utility. 3. Air Conditioning: Stay Cool on the Road If you’re heading south to Spain or Italy, an air conditioning unit is a serious upgrade. Sleeping inside a van on a summer night can feel like living in a tin can under the sun, not fun. Air con makes the difference between a restless night and a cool, comfortable sleep. They start around £1,200 and can go up to £3,000+, depending on the brand and power. In Scotland, you might not need it often, but if you’re planning any long European trips, totally worth it. 4. Power Up: Fitting an Inverter A common question we hear is, “Why can’t I use my normal three-pin plug when I’m camping off-grid?” That’s because your van runs on 12V power, not 240V like your home. The fix? Fit an inverter. An inverter turns 12V battery power into 240V household power, so you can charge your laptop, power tools, or even an induction hob. Small inverters start cheap and handle light tasks, but if you’re running a full gasless setup, you’ll want something around 3,000W or higher. 5. Wheels and Tyres: The Instant Facelift Want an instant style upgrade? Change the wheels. You’ve got two main routes: Swamper or Sports Alloy. Swamper style = smaller wheels (16–18 inch) and chunkier tyres for that rugged, off-road look. Sports alloys = bigger wheels, thinner tyres, and a sleek, road-ready vibe. If you’re going off-road, check out the BFG All-Terrain tyres, they’re super tough and look fantastic with the white sidewall lettering. 6. Solar Power: Freedom from the Plug Solar panels are one of the smartest upgrades you can add. They keep your batteries topped up and give you more freedom to camp off-grid. There are two main types: Semi-flexible panels thin, low-profile, and lightweight. Great for pop-top roofs. Rigid frame panels stronger, with slightly better performance and lifespan. If you’ve got roof space, go big! A 300W panel is perfect for a VW Transporter setup. Smaller 100W panels won’t make much difference on a van this size. 7. Snorkel: Built for Adventure Love them or hate them, snorkels are brilliant for anyone who likes real adventure. They raise your air intake, so your engine stays safe from water or dust when tackling tricky trails or flooded roads. We fit them on VW Transporters, and they’re great for peace of mind. The last thing you want is to ruin your engine on a deep water crossing. You can check out our full snorkel fitting guide on our site or YouTube channel if you fancy giving it a go yourself. 8. Wind-Out Awning: Double Your Living Space If we buy a new van, this is the first upgrade we add. A wind-out awning instantly doubles your living space. You can sit outside in the shade, dry your gear after a walk, or relax with the doors open even if it’s raining. It turns your camping setup from cramped to comfortable and once you have one, you’ll never want to go without. 9. Side Pods: Sleep Across the Van If you’ve got a bigger camper like a VW Crafter or MAN TGE, side pods (also called side flares or sleep pods) make a massive difference. They let you sleep sideways across the van, adding up to 6'1" or 6'2" of width. You can insulate and line them for warmth and comfort, giving you more space inside without extending the van itself. Perfect for taller campers or anyone wanting that extra bit of breathing room. 10. Air Suspension: Comfort Meets Clever Tech We’ve saved the best for last... Air suspension. It’s not just about ride comfort (though that’s amazing); it’s about smart functionality. With VB Air Suspension, you can adjust your height for different driving modes, self-level when camping, or raise the back to clear ramps. No more faffing with wheel chocks or uneven ground just press a button, and your van balances itself. There’s even a sports mode for a lower, smoother drive. It’s one of those upgrades that once you try, you’ll never go back. Final Thoughts: Build the Van You Love Upgrading your van isn’t about ticking boxes, it’s about creating something that fits your adventures, your lifestyle, and your personality. Whether you start with a pop-top roof or just swap out your wheels, every upgrade brings you closer to that dream setup. So, what will you start with?
Learn more
"Camping Gear.. The Warm Way" Changing Robe - Waterproof - Comfy
If you love spending time outdoors whether that’s catching waves, camping with friends, or dancing through a bit of festival drizzle, you know how important it is to stay warm, dry, and comfy. Enter your new best adventure buddy: the Mint Green Waterproof Changing Robe. Cozy Comfort Meets Clever Design Let’s talk about that feeling when you’ve just come out of the water, you’re freezing, and you’re trying to change without flashing the beach. Yeah… not fun.This robe changes the game (literally). The super soft Sherpa fleece lining feels like wrapping yourself in a warm blanket, while the recycled waterproof nylon shell keeps out wind and rain. Plus, it’s lightweight and easy to move in, so you can throw it on, zip up, and get on with your day — no awkward towel juggling required. Thoughtful Details You’ll Actually Use You can tell this robe was designed by people who get outdoor life. The chunky YKK zips are easy to grab with cold hands, the deep outside pockets keep your phone and snacks safe, and there’s even a hidden inside pocket for your valuables. It’s quick-drying, machine washable, and tough enough to handle sand, dirt, and endless adventures. When it’s time to pack up, it’s thin enough to stash in your camper’s pop-top roof, ready for the next outing. One Robe, Endless Adventures What’s great about the changing robe is how versatile it is. It’s your: - Changing robe for post-surf warm-ups- Drying robe for chilly campsite mornings- Dry coat when the weather turns mid-festival- Hooded blanket for cozy boat rides or lazy beach hangs Basically, if it’s outdoorsy, this robe belongs there. Built to Brave the Elements Here’s what makes it a total winner: Waterproof recycled nylon shell, keeps you dry, sustainably Super warm Sherpa fleece lining for instant coziness Chunky YKK zips, durable and easy to use Two deep outer zip pockets + one inner pocket Windproof, lightweight & quick-drying, ideal for on-the-go adventures Machine washable, because real life happens Why You’ll Love It This robe is the kind of thing you didn’t know you needed until you try it. It’s practical, ridiculously comfy, and somehow still stylish (that mint green? Chef’s kiss.). Whether you’re drying off after a surf, snuggling up at camp, or walking the dog on a windy morning this robe’s got your back. Literally.
Learn more
Fitting Stealth LED Lazor Lights To Your Campervan
If you’re into campervan builds, off-road adventures, or just love a bit of extra brightness when you hit the road, you’ve probably come across Lazer driving lights. These sleek, powerful lights are the ultimate upgrade for anyone who wants serious visibility and that clean, integrated grille-mounted look. An alternative to this would be the Stealth LED Light kit. In this week’s Works in Progress, the team dives into fitting a set of Lazer E9s, covering everything from cutting the grille (gulp) to wiring the CANbus system, setting up the sidelights, and giving the van that perfect pro finish. Let’s take a closer look at how it all comes together. The Kit: What’s in the Box? The Lazer E9 kit is impressively well thought out. Inside, you get: The Lazer E9 lights (available in a few sizes and designs some chunkier, some slimmer) Built-in sidelights with your choice of white or amber glow A universal wiring harness with relay, connectors, and battery leads Mounting brackets (left and right sided) A 3D-printed cutting jig to make sure you don’t butcher your grille CANbus reader for modern vehicles with LED DRLs And of course, full installation instructions, downloadable if you prefer digital The attention to detail is spot on — from the pre-fitted connectors to the included cutting guide, it’s clear these kits are designed for both precision and practicality. Cutting the Grille (Yes, Really!) Okay, this is the part that makes most people nervous cutting into the front grille of your van. But thanks to the 3D-printed cutting jig, it’s way easier (and safer) than it sounds. The jig clips straight into the grille and marks out the exact section you need to remove. The key here is accuracy, you want the light to sit perfectly flush, so take your time marking and checking before you start cutting. Always double-check that the cutout size matches your light before you commit. And whatever you do, watch out for the radiator behind the grille. A few careful, shallow cuts are far better than one deep slice that ruins your cooling system. Wiring & Sidelight Options Once the grille is cut and the lights are sitting snugly, it’s time to tackle the wiring. Each light plugs into the main harness via a weather-sealed Deutsch-style connector. The harness itself is universal, so it works across a variety of vehicles. It comes with: A relay Battery connectors (red and black) Signal wires for the sidelights and high beams, now here’s the fun bit; you can choose the colour of your sidelights: Plug in the brown wire for a warm amber glow Plug in the green wire for a crisp white glow It’s totally down to taste. In this build, the van already had LED DRLs, so the team went for the white option to match. Once you’ve picked your colour, tuck away the spare wire neatly zip-tie everything in place so nothing rattles around, and make sure your slack is managed for a clean finish. Dealing with CANbus Vehicles Now, this is where things get a little more technical. On modern vehicles like the VW Transporter T6.1, the headlights and DRLs are CANbus controlled. That means there’s no simple “switched 12V” live feed to tap into the system it uses digital signals instead. To get around this, the Lazer kit includes a CANNY CANbus reader. This clever little box connects to the van’s wiring harness and translates the digital CAN signals into traditional 12V triggers. Here’s how it works: CAN High & CAN Low wires (blue and white) tap into the vehicle’s CAN system. The reader then provides output signals for the main beam (purple) and sidelight (green). These trigger the relay, turning the lights on automatically when the van’s lights are activated. The CANNY also connects to a constant power supply and a solid ground. Once it’s installed and paired via the CANNY app (just scan the barcode on the unit for your vehicle’s setup), it’s plug-and-play magic. Routing the Wires & Final Setup With everything connected and tested, the final job is to route the switch wires neatly through the firewall into the cab. The cables follow the existing loom and pass through a rubber grommet under the steering column, keeping everything protected and tidy. Once in place, the controller and relay are mounted securely, and the excess cable is zip-tied out of sight. After a quick check that all the connections are tight and the lights sit flush, it’s time for the best part: the test run. Hit the sidelights, a clean white glow.Flick on the main beams, the Lazer E9s fire up like twin spotlights... Perfect. Securing the Lights The kit even includes security Torx screws to make sure your new lights stay put (and can’t be easily pinched). Just drill a small pilot hole, 2.5mm according to the manual and secure the anti-theft screws into place. A small detail, but a very worthwhile one. The Result: Looks Mean, Lights Meaner Once everything’s buttoned up, the result speaks for itself. The Lazer E9s blend seamlessly into the grille for that factory-fit finish — no bulky brackets or wires on show. And performance-wise? Night driving instantly feels safer and sharper. These lights don’t just illuminate the road; they transform it. Whether you’re cruising dark country lanes, tackling mountain passes, or just want your van to look the part, the Lazer E9s tick every box.
Learn more
Campervan Electrics Explained DIY Tips and Tricks
If you’ve ever looked at a campervans electrical diagram and felt your brain melt a little, don’t worry, you’re not alone! By the end, you’ll have a clear picture of what makes your campervans electrical system tick, how it all connects; from batteries, electrical set ups to solar panels. This will give you a basic understanding and an idea of what to think about when planning your own setup. Once you understand the basics, it all starts to make sense. So in this post, we’re breaking it down in plain English, no jargon, no complicated maths just the stuff you actually need to know before diving in. Electrics are one of the scariest parts of a van build for most people, and honestly, it’s easy to see why. Wires, fuses, volts, amps… it sounds like a foreign language. 12V vs 240V.. What’s the Deal? Most campervans run two types of power: 12V and 240V. 12V - is what runs off your van’s batteries. Think lights, USB sockets, fans, fridges all the essentials that keep your off-grid life ticking along. 240V - is your standard household electricity. It’s what powers bigger appliances like induction hobs, laptops, or kettles. But only if you’re plugged into a hookup or using an inverter. You’ll usually have two batteries in your setup: A starter battery (for the cab: headlights, radio, engine, etc.) A leisure battery (for your living space: lights, fridge, chargers, etc.) It’s super important to keep those separate. If you drain your starter battery while parked up, you might find yourself stranded in the morning. No one wants that! Keeping Your Batteries Charged There are three main ways to keep your leisure battery topped up: Solar panels, the ultimate off-grid power source. Battery-to-battery, (DC-DC) charging uses your van’s alternator while driving. Mains hookup, (shore power) perfect for campsites or when parked at home. A balanced setup usually uses a mix of all three, so you’re never left powerless whether you’re wild camping in the Highlands or plugged in at a campsite in Cornwall. Inverters, Turning 12V into 240V Magic An inverter is what lets you use your normal 3-pin plugs even when you’re off-grid. It converts 12V DC power from your batteries into 240V AC, the same as at home. They come in different sizes and power ratings. A small inverter might just charge a laptop, while a larger one can run a full induction hob. Just remember, inverters use a lot of power, so make sure your battery bank can handle the load! How to Plan Your Electrical Setup Before you start buying gear, take a moment to think about how you’ll actually use your van. Ask yourself: Will you mostly be off-grid or on campsites with hook-up? What time of year will you travel, sunny summers or chilly winters? Which gadgets and appliances do you really need? If you’re mainly staying off-grid, invest in solar panels and bigger batteries. If you’re on hook-ups most of the time, you can keep things simpler. A little planning at this stage will save you a lot of money and headaches later on. Choosing the Right Battery Type There are two main options for campervan batteries: lead-acid and lithium. Lead-acid: Cheaper, but heavier and less efficient. Good for small setups or tight budgets. Lithium (LiFePO₄): Lighter, longer-lasting, and can discharge deeper, meaning more usable power. Great if you’re going off-grid a lot or running high-powered gear. Lithium batteries often include built-in Bluetooth monitoring, so you can check your battery health and charge straight from your phone. Handy, right? Solar Power.. Is It Worth It? In short.. Yes, if you love being off-grid.Solar panels aren’t fast chargers, but they’re brilliant for keeping your batteries topped up and healthy, especially if your van sits parked for long stretches. For most vans, somewhere between 150–300W of solar is ideal. You can go for traditional framed panels or flexible roof panels for a sleeker look. Wiring & Safety: Don’t Skip This Bit Here’s where it gets serious: wiring mistakes can be costly (and dangerous).The biggest culprits of electrical fires in vans are wrong wire sizes or missing fuses. Every single circuit in your system should have a correctly rated fuse. That way, if something goes wrong, the fuse blows! Not your fridge, lights, or van. Use protective conduit to keep wires safe from sharp metal edges, label your cables, and take your time. Electrics are one part of a build where slow and steady always wins. Crimping vs Soldering.. Which Is Better? When connecting wires, you can either crimp or solder. Crimping is quicker, but only as good as your tool and technique, a weak crimp can come loose.Soldering takes a little longer but gives a strong, permanent bond that won’t wiggle free on bumpy roads. If you’re doing it yourself, soldering is usually worth the extra effort. Drawing It All Out Before you install anything, draw your system diagram.It doesn’t need to be artistic, just clear enough to show what connects where: batteries, fuses, appliances, isolators, etc. This will help you see the bigger picture, spot potential issues, and make troubleshooting way easier later on. A Few Safety Reminders Let’s be honest, campervan electrics aren’t something you want to guess at.Here are a few golden rules: Always disconnect your power before working on the system. Check wire thickness and fuse ratings, don’t just guess. Use proper fixings, not tape or makeshift connections. Don’t splice into factory wiring unless you know what you’re doing. If in doubt, get a professional to check your setup before you hit the road. The Finished System Once everything’s in and working, you’ll be able to monitor your setup through your control panels — or even on your phone if you’re using smart systems like Victron or CBE. You’ll see: Battery charge levels Solar input Power usage Water tank levels Lighting and heating controls Pretty cool seeing your whole van’s electrical system in one place! Final Thoughts Electrics might feel overwhelming at first, but once you understand the basics, it’s just a matter of planning and patience. Whether you’re building your van from scratch or just want to know how everything works, a little knowledge goes a long way.
Learn more